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Dongar Classic Dash Cam Adapter - Mirror Plug Power, No Fuse Tap, Ignition-On

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Cable Pack
Regular price $79.99
Sale price $79.99 Regular price RRP $89.99
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Power Your Dash Cam From the Mirror, Not the Cigarette Lighter. The Dongar Classic Dash Cam Adapter Plugs Into Your Car's Factory Mirror Connector

Most dash cams come with a long lead for the 12V socket. It loops across the windscreen, hangs past the gear selector and takes the socket you wanted for your phone. The usual fix is hardwiring into the fuse box, which means pulling trim and choosing fuses. The Dongar Classic takes a shorter route: the powered connector behind an auto-dimming mirror sits a few centimetres from where your dash cam mounts, so the adapter simply plugs in there.

Trusted AU store: We're an authorised Australian reseller, shipping from Melbourne within 24 hours*. You get a 12-month warranty, local technical support, and our 30-Day No-Worries returns.

Who This Isn't For: If you want your dash cam recording while the car is parked, the Classic is the wrong adapter. It follows the ignition, so the camera switches off when the car does. The Dongar Pro parking mode adapter adds timed and continuous power with a battery cut-off. The Classic is for drivers who want a hidden, fuse-free feed while they drive.

Check Your Mirror Plug Before You Order

The right Dongar adapter depends on the plug in your car, not the badge on the boot. Dongar builds its fitment charts around US-market vehicles, and an Australian-delivered car can use a different mirror or connector to its American twin, so treat any US chart as a starting point only.

  • Check the mirror: you need a powered mirror or sensor connector, usually an auto-dimming mirror. A plain mirror with a manual dimming tab normally has no power to tap.
  • Look at the plug: ease the mirror cover off and photograph the connector. The pin count and plug shape decide the harness code, such as 3B, 10B or 16A.
  • Match it: our Dongar adapter finder walks you through the mirror check and the plug chart step by step.
  • Still unsure: email the photo with your make, model, year and trim to gday@dashcamguys.com.au and we will confirm the harness code before you order.

Every harness we carry, plus the short converter leads, sits in our Dongar adapter range.

DCG Highlights

What We Love

  • A vehicle-specific harness plugs into the factory connector, so there is no fuse tap, no splicing and no cable run down the A-pillar
  • The harness passes power straight through to the mirror, so auto-dimming and the mirror's other functions keep working as normal
  • An 18W USB-C output on the current module that negotiates 5V, 9V or 12V, so higher-draw dash cams and radar detectors get the voltage they ask for
  • Ignition-on power in most cars, so the camera starts and stops with the car and never sits on the battery overnight
  • Protection against overcurrent, overvoltage, heat and short circuits built into the module, inside a flame-retardant shell
  • A status light on the USB-C module, green at 9 to 12V and red at 5V, so you can confirm the feed at a glance
  • Nothing is cut, so the harness unplugs and the car goes back to standard before a trade-in

Good to Know

  • No parking mode. When the ignition goes off, so does your dash cam.
  • A few harness codes, including 3A, use Dongar's earlier USB-A module, rated 5V at up to 2.4A rather than 18W USB-C.
  • Engine start-stop can cut power to the mirror circuit at the lights, so the camera may restart when the engine does.
  • Toyota and Lexus owners: do not unplug the 12-pin Toyota Safety Sense connector near the mirror. It looks like the mirror plug but it is not.

Why Mirror Power Beats the 12V Socket

A mirror power adapter gives your dash cam a hidden, switched power feed from a connector that is already at the top of the windscreen. Most cars with an auto-dimming mirror run a powered cable up to it, because the mirror needs electricity to dim, show a compass or run a garage remote.

Normally a dash cam gets its power one of two ways. The 12V socket lead is easy but visible, and it gets knocked loose. Hardwiring into the fuse box hides the cable, but it means pulling trim, testing fuses and fitting taps, and that is where plenty of DIY installs stall. The Dongar Classic removes both problems: it borrows power from the mirror connector through a matching plug, and the lead to your camera is short enough to disappear behind the mirror cover. The trade-off is fitment. It only works where your car has a powered connector and Dongar makes a matching harness, and it cannot keep the camera running once you park.

Top Benefits

  • A tidy windscreen: The short lead runs from the mirror to the camera, so nothing crosses the dash or hangs down to the console.
  • Your 12V socket back: The dash cam no longer occupies the socket, so it is free for a phone charger.
  • No fuse box work: A plug-in harness replaces fuse taps, a ground wire and the guesswork of picking circuits.
  • Mirror still works: The pass-through harness keeps auto-dimming and other mirror features running.
  • Easy to undo: Unplug the harness and refit the original connector, and the car is back to factory.
  • More than dash cams: Dongar rates the USB-C output for radar detectors and USB-C phones as well.

How Does the Dongar Classic Install?

  1. Turn the car off, tilt the mirror down and ease the mirror cover off, using a plastic pry tool if the seam is tight.
  2. Press the release tab on the car's mirror connector and unplug it, plug the Dongar harness into the car's socket, then plug the original connector into the other end of the harness.
  3. Connect the harness's small 2-pin plug to the Classic USB module, then run the short USB cable from the module to your dash cam.
  4. Turn the car on and check that the module's light and your camera both come on and the mirror still works, then tuck the module inside the cover or stick it to the glass and refit the cover.

Dongar quotes about five minutes and no special tools for a typical mirror install. Some harness codes connect elsewhere, such as the dome light cavity (3A and 5A) or a windscreen sensor, so follow the manual for your harness code, linked at the foot of this page.

What's in the Box?

  • Dongar Classic USB module with an adhesive pad
  • The vehicle-specific wiring harness for the code you choose (some codes, such as 3B5F, include two harnesses so you can use the one that fits)
  • Short USB cable to connect your dash cam (some kits include two)
  • Plastic pry tool, in some kits only
  • Not included: a dash cam, a USB-C to DC barrel cable, and a lead for micro-USB or mini-USB cameras where your kit's cable does not fit

Add Yours Today

Choose your harness code above, then add the lead your camera needs: the Dongar USB-C converter bundle for micro-USB and mini-USB cameras, the Dongar USB-C to DC cable for BlackVue barrel-plug cameras, or the Dongar USB-C right-angle adapter where a straight plug fouls the mirror cover. We ship from Melbourne within 24 hours*, backed by our 30-Day No-Worries returns. We do not install cameras ourselves, but you can find someone local in our directory of independent installers. They are independent businesses, so you book and contract directly with them.

📖 Own this already? Read the Dongar Classic manual, harness instructions and troubleshooting guide.


FAQ

  • Q: What is the difference between the Dongar Classic and the Dongar Pro? A: Parking mode. The Classic follows the ignition, so your dash cam switches off with the car. The Dongar Pro adds a slider for timed and continuous power after you park, with a low-voltage cut-off at no lower than 11.8V to protect the battery. The current Classic module and the Pro both give 18W USB-C output. If you never need parked recording, the Classic is the simpler and cheaper choice.
  • Q: Will a Dongar adapter fit my car? A: Only if your car has a powered connector that matches one of Dongar's harnesses, so check the plug, not the model name. Dongar's charts list US-market vehicles, and Australian cars can use a different connector. Photograph the plug behind your mirror cover and match it in our Dongar adapter finder, or email it to gday@dashcamguys.com.au and we will confirm the code.
  • Q: Will the Dongar Classic drain my car battery? A: Not in most cars, because the mirror circuit switches off with the ignition, sometimes after a short delay. A few sensor-port harnesses, such as LRS in some Porsche, BMW and Toyota Supra models, can supply constant power instead. If your camera stays on for more than a few minutes after you lock the car, email us so we can check your setup.
  • Q: Can I power a radar detector with it? A: Yes, if the detector runs on USB. Dongar rates the Classic's USB-C output for radar detectors as well as dash cams. Detectors with an RJ11 phone-style plug need a USB-C to RJ11 lead, which we stock as a 30cm Dongar cable. Check what voltage your detector expects first, and ask us if you are unsure.
  • Q: Why does my dash cam turn off at traffic lights? A: That is almost always engine start-stop cutting power to the mirror circuit when the engine stops. It is normal behaviour, not a fault in the adapter. You can switch start-stop off when you start the car, or power the camera from the fuse box with a hardwire kit if the restarts bother you.
  • Q: Do I need an auto-dimming mirror? A: Usually, yes. The Classic needs a powered connector, and in most cars that means an auto-dimming mirror or one with a compass or garage remote. A plain mirror with a manual dimming tab normally has no wiring to tap. Some harness codes connect at the dome light or a windscreen sensor instead, so check the plug before ruling your car out.
Dongar Classic Dash Cam Adapter - Mirror Plug Power, No Fuse Tap, Ignition-On

$79.99

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